Sunday I had a craving for goat milk ice cream. Unfortunately though I had some goat cheese and cream cheese in the fridge, I did not have goat milk and I didn’t have whole milk, just 2%. So I pulled out my copy of Jenni Bauer and sure enough there was goat cheese ice cream recipe. Actually she has two versions, one with cognac figs and the other roasted red cherries spun in. Sorry to say neither one made it in. This is straight goat cheese, egg-less ice cream and it is fantastic. A very addicting flavor that would work with just about any mix-in or sauce you would want to add. Also this is another ice cream that would make an excellent side to pie.
Using 2% instead of whole milk did cause it to freezer harder than im sure it would have otherwise. But it still scooped out fairly well, was not at all icy and had a very smooth texture after a few minutes of thawing.
Goat Cheese Ice Cream very closely based on Jeni Bauer's recipe
2 cups of 2% milk (whole would be better)
1 T plus 1t of tapioca or corn starch
½ cup (4 oz.) of goat cheese
3 T (1.5 oz.) cream cheese
¼ t salt
1¼ cups of heavy cream
½ - ⅔ cup of sugar depending on your sweet tooth.
¼ cup light corn syrup
Mix a few tablespoons of milk with the tapioca/corn starch, set aside.
Put the salt, and cheeses in a blender. Put on the blender top but open the pour in it.
Place the container/s you are going to be storing your ice cream in, into the freezer to pre-chill it.
Add the milk, cream, sugar, corn syrup to a 4 quart heavy bottomed pan on medium heat.
Bring to a low rolling boil. Boil for 4 minutes. Stir with a rubber spatula so milk doesn't burn or stick to the bottom of the pot.
Remove from heat, re-mix the tapioca/corn starch and milk slurry and gradually add it to the pot while stirring.
Put back on burner and stir for a minute or so until slightly thickened. It doesn't need to boil, we are just cooking the starch and using it to thicken the mix.
Pour the mix into a heat proof bowl that has a lip.
Turn on the blender and from the new bowl slowly pour the mix into the blender through the top pour hole. Blend long enough so that the cheeses are smoothly incorporated into the mix. This should only take 10 seconds or so.
Pre-Chill the mix if you need to. Click on the link for suggestions.
Pour mix into your ice cream maker and freeze as per manufacturer's instructions.
Freeze your ice cream at least 4- 6 hours for the best texture. A layer of cling wrapped pressed into the top of the ice cream prevents ice build up on surface.
There is no reason why the milk and cream cant be substituted with goat milk and goat cream.
Using a blender when making ice cream has become a habit of mine. I like how smooth the mix ends up and I think Im getting a little more air incorporated into the mix. But using one is a little extra work, so you don’t have to if you don’t want to be bothered. The cheeses can be placed in a large heat-proof bowl and after you are done cooking the mix, pour it over the cheeses and whisk together until smooth.
Really incredible ice creams can be made from cheeses. This is a case in point. Goat cheese ice cream is rich and creamy, basically everything an ice cream should be. The folks at Brooklyn Supper brighten up the flavor with a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar and keep the texture soft with a couple of tablespoons of vodka. The later is optional of course. You could replace that with corn starch if you wanted an no alcohol version. Read the Jeni Bauer base recipe for other ideas.
Goat cheese is often served with various fruit spreads which would also go well this ice cream. Though I have to note this chèvre crème glacée au fromage does not have as pronounced a goat character as the cheese served by itself would. More than anything the flavor reminds me an excellent cheesecake.
A small amount of fig spread, quince paste and spiced apples for example, would be very nice accompaniments, as would pistachios or almonds and a little drizzle of honey. Actually I just looked at David Lebovitz’s goat cheese recipe, interesting in that it only uses milk and no cream, -sigh so many recipes so little time- and he recommends serving it with a topping of strong honey and some walnuts. Given how much like cheesecake it tastes a strawberry, raspberry or even chocolate sauce would probably work well. Well enough with the tangents, on to the recipe.
I have been curious about using goat milk in ice cream as I love goat cheese and was recently turned on to cajeta, a mexican goat milk dulce de leche. After doing a bit of reseach I found that there are only minor differences either nutritionally or in make up between milk from cows and goats. Here is a comparison table that I pulled from this interesting comparison between dairy goats and cows.
So the decision to use goat milk instead of cow milk comes down to taste preference. Maybe you are lucky enough to own a goat, and have a ready supply of fresh goat milk. While you will certainly taste the goat in goat milk ice creams, the taste is subtler than in cheese. Cold dampens flavors and the taste of sugar pretty drasticly alters flavor in most ice creams. Having said that, the unique tang of goat milk seems to be one of those flavors that inspires a wide range of extreme reactions in people. I assume if you have read this far you are fan.
So here is my first attempt at a goat milk ice cream. I decided to be a goat milk purist and use no cow milk or cream at all. This means we have to get more fat from somewhere and we need something to to help us fight grainy ice crystals. The additional fat will come from egg yolks and the additional ice tamer will be corn starch. Im using honey rather than table sugar because the flavor is a good complement to goat milk. Try to use a strong, dark version. The downside to using honey is that ice creams with a lot of it tend to develop a coarse texture after being stored in a home freezer for a while. We are only going to make about a pint and a half so that we can eat it with only a few hours hardening (or straight out of our ice cream maker).
A vanilla goat milk ice cream that can be eaten as is or used as a base for other flavors.
2 cups goat milk
½ vanilla bean or 1 tablespoon of vanilla extract
4 egg yolks
⅓ cup honey
1 tablespoon of corn starch
Mix together the egg yolks, ½ cup of goat milk and the corn starch until smooth in a blender.
If using a vanilla bean, split it and scrape out the seeds. Add the pod and seeds to the goat milk in the next step. If using vanilla extract it will be added in at the end of the cooking process.
Add the remaining goat milk and honey to a heavy bottomed, medium, saucepan (preferably one with a pouring lip), and bring to a rolling boil on a medium heat. Boil, stirring for 3 minutes.
Remove the saucepan from the burner. Turn the blender on at a low setting and in a very, very, thin stream pour in the hot goat milk. It is critical that this is done very slowly so as not to end up with scrambled eggs. Do this through the access hole in your blender lid as opposed to just having the lid off, otherwise you risk making a surprising and regretable mess. If you would prefer a more traditional method read this.
When the goat milk mix is fully incorporated with the eggs, turn off the blender and pour the mix back into the pan you used to heat the goat milk.
Thicken the mixture into an egg custard by stirring constantly, over a medium heat, until you measure 170º F/77° C on a good instant read thermometer. If you don't have an instant read thermometer, thicken it until you can run your finger over the back of the spoon or spatula you are stirring with and leave a trail that doesn't immediately fill back in.
Remove from heat. Remove the two pieces of vanilla bean pod. If using vanilla extract instead, mix it in now.
Pre-chill the mixture before freezing it in your ice cream maker. Read about the various ways of doing this (or not) here
Freeze the mixture in your ice cream maker. It should take 15 - 30 minutes.
Serve right out of your maker or within a few hours of storing in your freezer. Store remainder in a freezer proof container. A layer of cling wrap smoothed on to the top of the ice cream before you close the container, will help keep air out and frost from forming.
I would serve this as a sundae using a generous topping of warm cajeta sauce and some toasted almond slivers.
As Delicious Days is one of the world’s best food blogs (and I SO MEAN THAT!) I am really looking forward to making this. I am a big fan of Dulce de Leche, but was not familiar with a Mexican version; Cajeta, a sweetened caramelized goat’s milk. With the prevalence of Mexican grocery stores these days I don’t expect any trouble finding Cajeta, but if you cant, substitute Dulce de Leche which can be found in any Latino market. Not to mention the fact that there are a million places to buy Cajeta online.